on Friday morning, I decided to go to London. the uk aids quilt (which I’ve never seen) was being displayed at Tate Modern, in the turbine hall, which is free and the London gay men’s chorus were singing at 12.45pm. I was bloody knackered but I know someone in the chorus (at least I think he’s still in the chorus), I knew they’d sound amazing in that space and after looking up to see how often the quilt was on display and finding out “not very often” I decided to go.
got to the station and when I went to show the ticket bloke my railcard, it showed me the one that expired in august last year! I’ve been using my railcard so I knew I hadn’t fucked up. he told me to go outside and try refreshing (I got the sense this wasn’t the first time this had happened) so I did. still showed me last year. then it showed me both at once, then only this year’s (expires in December, which I knew). went back with only a few minutes before the train and a tall foreign bloke is now there, he’d left something on the Hastings train which had his wallet in so ticket bloke was now trying to call Hastings. as each minute went by I reminded myself it was no big deal, if the train arrived I could just get a ticket onboard instead but got my ticket with a minute to spare.
got on a lovely empty carriage. I think that lasted for one or two stops then four large women, one child and one baby in a pram, with four huge suitcases and one dog got on. they took up eight seats, put their feet up on the seats AND THE TABLE and then started eating their lunches, while shouting at each across the way. I think the women (three sisters and maybe one wife) had all overdone it the night before and had also got themselves thoroughly burned. I was prepared to forgive all of this because they had a dog and I still had a seat to myself, plus the back of my seat was protecting me from food spray.
the conductor came down to check tickets and I thought he’d have a word but no.
several stops later, a LOT of people got on. two of the sisters sat together and sure enough, one had left a banquet of crumbs all over the seat. a bunch of youngish posh types got on (must’ve been tunbridge wells) they were all going to twickenham for the day and had made a good start on their ready mixed passionfruit gin cocktails in a can. one of the girls sat beside me and because she was talking to someone in the aisle (the train had got really busy and pretty warm) her very long hair kept brushing my bare arm. I’m sure it was clean but that gives me The Ick. they started talking about royal ascot and I marvelled at the social tiers contained in that one carriage, the people immediately behind me were bridging the gap. I was also grateful that I was getting off at London Bridge and not Charing Cross as usual.
I’ve mentioned that the carriage was overly warm and crowded, right? as we were coming into London proper, but not yet at London Bridge, the dog shat on the floor.
and it wasn’t very solid.
(in all the time I’ve been train travelling, I have never experienced this before.)
the poshers scarpered to another carriage and I watched, vaguely stunned as the owner used tissues to try and clean it up. “does she not have fucking poo bags?” I asked myself. turned out she did but went through a bunch of tissues, wiping it into the carpet, before she remembered that. she’s yelling “sorry everyone” and I felt really sorry for the dog because I think it didn’t like being on the train and it must’ve been desperate to go for a poo like that.
got off the train and felt oh so smug because I’d managed to get the carriage door right by the escalators (complete fluke). went towards the exits then realised it was actually just a glass wall. retraced my steps, found the exits, went outside.
now, I knew which way I had to go. I WANTED to go along the thames because I love that walk but citymapper insisted I should go via southwark and as it was only 11 minutes and I didn’t want to miss the chorus I decided to go with that.
however.
London bridge, much like – is it old street that has a zillion exits? – always confuses me now. it doesn’t seem to matter which way I go, I end up using the wrong exit and yesterday was no different. I’d walked for a few minutes before I realised I was going in completely the wrong direction. it was a nuisance but not really a problem, still lots of time.
it looked like it wanted me to go back into the station and cut through to the other side, so I did but actually, it didn’t and all I’d done was add another 10 minutes onto my journey. that was now cutting it fine for me to get there in time and of course, what I’d forgotten to factor in, was that I was in London on a saturday which makes fast walking almost impossible.
I was cursing my idiocy but following the map quite happily and then, with a sinking heart, I realised where it was taking me.
bloody. borough. market.
now, the last time I was there was years ago and it was busy. it’s now impassable. literally, three lines of people trying to go in one direction, the occasional person making it through the opposite direction and everyone getting frazzled and fucked off.
at this point there was still a possibility I’d make it but it was getting smaller by the moment, I was hot, sweaty and irritated and annoyed at myself for not just going to the thames in the first place.
things didn’t improve and I finally admitted that I wasn’t going to hear the chorus so I should just enjoy the moment and take everything in and make the best of it. but of course I couldn’t do that could I? no, I kept walking, fast as possible, trying to get to TM and bloody googlemaps (which I’d switched to rather than citymapper) kept turning itself off because it thought I was close enough now not to bother.
I was sooooo frustrated and also sooooo disappointed because I’d loved the fact that I’d decided to make the journey at all and now it felt like I should’ve stayed home and tidied my room and blah blah BLAH.
anyway, I saw the huge tower and headed for that and realised it was bringing me round to the back entrance. got in, made my way to the turbine hall and thought, yes! I could hear singing! I scuttled to where the voices were coming from and realised the chorus was at the opposite end from me and between me and them were a LOT of people. so I became that arsehole who pushes right through from the back to the front, excusing herself the whole way and made it three people from the front row just in time to hear the last few words.
(I’d also been wrong about the sound, I thought it would bellow and fill the hall, the hall swallowed it up.)
lots of people were emotional and I was miserable. rather than be able to give the quilt the respect and time it warranted, I’d rushed alongside huge chunks of it, trying to see the chorus, fucking that up, maybe pissing other people off and now I felt awful and alone and in tears.
I know how to deal with this though: find some space, a glass of wine and take a breath.
I asked an attendant if there was anywhere in the building I could get a glass of wine if I wasn’t a member and she pointed me in the direction of the corner bar. which I have to say, I really liked. I got a glass of shiraz, found a table and let myself have a mild emotional collapse. it was absolutely fine, so many people were there with red eyes or swollen faces, they weren’t to know that my reasoning was different but it made me a lot less conspicuous.
I got in touch with K to let her know and she let me know that we were both meant to be in London that day for a friend’s birthday! we’d both mucked it up, I thought the birthday was July but the point is, his husband was the friend I thought was in the chorus so I wouldn’t have seen him anyway! they were in bloody TOOTING!
I knew I wasn’t going to be able to “walk the quilt” after all, there were too many people and too much emotion in the air so I decided to go look at it from above, in its entirety and be happy with that. then I would get myself to the thames and walk back to Charing Cross, taking my time.
when I saw the quilt I got overwhelmed again but it wasn’t as scary this time because I knew where I was and how to get out of there. I looked for a friend who had been working there the day before but couldn’t see her, probably just as well because if I’d seen a familiar face at that point I think I would’ve completely dissolved. I’m still not sure why it was all too much but it was my second, consecutive trip to London that had gone wrong and I normally love a mini adventure.
upon leaving I realised that what I should really do was go to the garden space in front of the building and stand on the grass in bare feet, so I did. if anyone tells you that grounding yourself is bullshit, ignore them. making that contact with the earth via your skin really, really works. I stood there for a little while then felt ok to move on.
it was completely different heading towards Charing Cross, I knew exactly where I was, I was in no rush, the weather was beautiful and I had the headspace to take in what had changed around me, etc. then I had the brainwave of seeing if retro was open. it’s one of my happy places, tons of good memories made there and it’s where K and I met in person for the first time.
opted to walk across Waterloo bridge, I haven’t done that in years and that was ‘my’ bridge when we lived in south east London. even that felt different, they’ve got the cycle paths on both sides now and the barriers to stop cars driving into people. you wouldn’t think twice about them if you were a visitor but if you know why they’re there it’s, dark.
happily, retro was indeed open and blissfully cool and quiet. I had a Malbec there and then left to go catch my train home. other than being REALLY, BLOODY, SLOW it was an uneventful journey back. I decided to go to the royal when I got to st Leonards, partly because I needed a pee, partly because I still felt emotional and needed a bit more me time and partly because I was desperate for a dog cuddle and the royal is a good bet for that (had a super one from a labradoodle!)
saw several friends both there and walking home but it wasn’t intrusive, it was nice, it was comfortable and reassuring and once again I was so grateful to be able to call this town home.
if London fails me a third time, I may just cancel all my gallery memberships and never go back.
(yeah yeah.)